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Travel Journals
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Exploring Ethiopia
Full Itinerary
We wanted to go to Africa, but did not want the safari experience. We researched potential destinations in Africa and discovered that Ethiopia had a history that rivaled Egypt with its many ruins and antiquities. With the help of Jeanie Fundora of Cox & Kings USA, we booked our private tour of Ethiopia.
We made an excellent choice. Ethiopia for us will always be a collection of good times, fond memories, and everlasting impressions. Our trip covered the northern region of Ethiopia. During October, when we visited Ethiopia, the countryside is lush green. The fields are busy with families tilling the land. Farmers rich enough to own oxen are breaking new ground. Sugar cane is ripe. Tef (the staple grain of Ethiopia) is being harvested. A steady stream of people trail along dirt roads enroute to markets in towns such as Lalibela to sell their grain, honey, hops (for homemade Tege). Some along the roadside are returning home with a new calf or goats. Workers in kelly green uniforms stand at the entrances to the large open-air markets. They are the tax collectors assessing the value of the goat to be sold. Just beyond the entrance are people braiding aloe vera fibers into ropes so that the newly purchased goat follows closely behind during the long walk back home.
One of our first destinations in Ethiopia was Gondar and the nearby Simien mountains. In October, the Simien Mountains are awash with wildflowers. Bedessa, our local Gondar guide, lead us in the mountains on a mile trek to see Ethiopia's Colobus monkeys and endemic Geladus baboons. We must have been a novelty for the people tending goats on the mountainside pastures as we acquired 20 or so new Ethiopian friends during our brief trek.
Gondar was also our first exposure to the religious heritage of Ethiopia and the subtle regional differences in the relics of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. For example, the intricate shapes of religious crosses differ between Gondar, Lalibela, and Axum. Assisting Bedessa in Gondar was Groom, also an exception guide. Both guides explained the symbolism and Old Testament stories conveyed in the colorful religious paintings seen in Ethiopian churches. Debre Berhan Sellassie church in Gondar exemplifies this diversity of religious art. This church's ceiling is a pattern of angelic faces. On a sidewall is a mural of Saint George (ubiquitous on church walls throughout Ethiopia and a popular brand of beer). Looming over is a formidable depiction of the Holy Trinity.
Religious structures continued to dominate our interests at our next destination of Lalibela. The eleven churches of Lalibela were formed by carving directly into solid mountain. These churches were built over 800 years ago during the reign of King Lalibela. Exploring the churches and walking through tunnels that interconnect churches is like retracing the footsteps of Indiana Jones. Only Indiana Jones didn't have the luxury of his own personal shoe bearer! Abebe served as our shoe-bearer during our two-day visit to Lalibela. And no adventure is complete without a visit to a local tege bar to indulge in the establishment's homemade honey brew and talk world politics with Abush, our guide and Helu, our driver.
Axum is famous as the Ethiopian city where the Lost Ark of the Covenant is believed to reside. The mystery of the Lost Ark of the Covenant has endured for centuries and seems to fit naturally with the rich diversity of archeological sites that exist in Axum. Towering monoliths are common. Ancient artifacts continue to be uncovered. A large stone tablet written in three languages sits curiously on a farmer's land where it was discovered while tilling his field. Likely there are many treasures in and around Axum that are yet to be discovered. Tekla, our local guide in Axum, introduced us to one of the most interesting antique shops we've visited in our travels. The shop was a museum of Ethiopian treasures with everything from Axum crosses to wooden pillows used by nomadic Ethiopians.
Our trip ended in Addis Ababa. Our Ethiopian host guide, Amin, took us out for an evening of Ethiopian cuisine and folk dancing. He is a wealth of knowledge and was the icing on the cake to our vacation.
A few thoughts to make a visit to Ethiopia even more enjoyable:
1) Read the Sign and the Seal by Graham Hancock. The book provides a good understanding of the history of the area and adds mystery and intrigue to Ethiopia's ancient past.
2) The Sheraton in Addis likely is the gold standard for luxury hotels in Africa. In contrast, the hotels in towns such as Gondar and Lalibela, while not of the caliber of the Addis Sheraton, are adequate in that they are clean and comfortable. These hotels cater to Asian, European, and American travelers and hotel menus (including the Sheraton) are tailored to the tastes of non-Ethiopian travelers (e.g., fish, pasta). Never-the-less, Ethiopia's excellent cuisine, while not on the menu, is still normally available for the asking.
3) Try to book a direct flight if traveling from Axum to Addis to avoid hopping from city to city (e.g., Axum to Lalibela to Gondar to Bahar Dar to Addis Ababa).
Ethiopia far exceeded our expectations. Next, we hope to travel to see the southern tribes of Ethiopia, or visit Petra or Mongolia—it's hard to say for sure, but we know Cox and Kings will take us there. Thank you Jeanie for planning such a memorable vacation!
Jon and Sue Snow
Do you have a C&K travel story you would like to share? We'd love to hear from you! Submit your travel tales and reflections to tours@coxandkingsusa.com.
Travel Journals
Laos, Land of a Million Elephants
Nat Waring's North Island, Seychelles Report
Memsahib in the Kitchen
The Tigers of Rathambore
Life Along the Ayeyarwady
North Island, Seychelles
Our Honeymoon To Kenya
Our Stay at North Island
Bali and Sumba Islands, Indonesia
Peru and the Inti Raymi Festival
Northern Thailand & Myanmar
Going Native in Malaysia
Bhutan, Nepal, Cambodia & Thailand
Exploring Ethiopia
Falling in Love—with India
A Perfect Safari to Kenya and Tanzania
A Thai Wedding
Indochina Sojourn
Family Safari to Tanzania
Exploring Malaysia
Our Dream Family Safari to South Africa
Safari to Botswana
Bhutan
Nepal: Trekking and Heli Trip
East Africa and Rwanda
Bangkok to Bhutan—A Father-Daughter Journey
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