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Travel Journals
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Memsahib in the Kitchen
Ranthambore, India, March 13
—by Mrs. Koppel
On a recent two-week tour of Rajasthan, India, I had the ultimate Cooking Experience.
We arrived at Sawai Madhopur after a seven-hour train ride from Jodphur. Our destination was the Vanyavilas Resort near the Ranthambore Game Reserve, and the site of my Indian Cooking Experience. Most travellers come hoping to see tigers, leopards, etc. on several game drives. I came hoping to learn more about my passion: Indian cooking.
All was pre-arranged by Cox & Kings. We were welcomed to this idyllic spot by the Manager, the Executive Chef and Host, Mr. Soumya Goswami, the sous-chef and my mentor, Mr. Yogender Pal Singh, and our houseboy. After a refreshing drink of cold watermelon juice we were garlanded with leis made up of yellow limes, whole mace, green and black cardamom pods, dried and fresh red chilies, cinnamon sticks and lemon leaves. It was an auspicious and aromatic beginning.
Vanyavilas is the first luxury tent jungle camp in India. It consists of 25 air-conditioned tents discreetly located on 20 acres of landscaped gardens—with an emphasis on luxury. Imagine our surprise to find an air-conditioned, walled tent, with a four-poster bed, private gardens on two sides with seating areas, and an enormous bathroom with a special closet just for unpacking suitcases—every convenience and every indulgence one could dream of.
My Cooking Experience began the day after our arrival when I had already had an opportunity to sample the kitchen creations, which only whetted my enthusiasm for what was to come. After an early morning game drive I reported to the kitchen. Before getting down to work we toured the orchard, the vegetable garden and the herb/spice garden. My mentor explained that the hallmark of the Vanyavilas kitchen is freshness—in herbs, vegetables and fruits. Because they prepare many continental dishes using herbs not available in Indian markets, they must grow their own: parsley, chervil, marjoram and thyme among others.
The air was filled with a marvellous fragrance and Mr. Singh pointed out that it came from the mango trees, and informed me that they use the mangoes to make a wide variety of pickles and chutneys. We then headed for the kitchen where I received the warmest of welcomes from the entire kitchen staff. The white board used for daily comments even had a message of welcome for me.
The resort is quite new and both chefs had a hand in planning the kitchen, so I was given a tour that communicated how proud they were of their accomplishments, and generated awe and enthusiasm on my part. Then I donned a Vanyavilas apron and immediately set about making the chicken curry offered on the evening's menu. All of the ingredients were measured out, except that the spices, both sweet and savory, came from a large tin compartmented box, and were added by feel—the chef's, not mine. As we prepared the curry Mr. Singh talked about the importance of cooking the spices first, and removing them, then cooking the onions well before adding the garlic or ginger-garlic paste, because garlic makes the mixture stick to the pan. As we progressed he explained the spices and herbs, the order in which they are added—some early in the sautéing, some at the end, depending on how long each seasoning should cook.
While the curry bubbled on one burner, we made Akha Palak, a very simple Rajasthani specialty of spinach stir-fried with cumin and garlic—and many other ingredients that are so integral to Moghul cooking that they hardly bear listing: lemon juice, red chilli powder, chopped green chilies, whole red chilies, and tomatoes. While at the same cooking station we also prepared a potato dish called Aloo Jeera. I worked with a different cook on each of these dishes, under the tutelage of Mr. Singh.
Then we moved to an altogether different part of the kitchen: the Tandoor ovens section. Although I know I will NEVER cook anything in a tandoor, I was quite excited at the prospect of getting 'up close and personal' with these ancient ovens. First the tandoor chef, Gaurav, demonstrated the preparation of Murgh Tikka, bite-sized chicken pieces marinated with yoghurt and red chilies and cooked in the Tandoor. Then he taught me to make Murgh Malai Tikka, a more complex version of Murgh Tikka using egg, cream, and of all things, processed cheddar cheese in the marinade. As each dish was cooked I had an opportunity to taste it. I was tempted to eat all of each one! Then I watched as they prepared various breads cooked in the tandoor, but didn't offer to participate. The kitchen at Vanyavilas has two of these ovens, one is maintained at a higher temperature (700 degrees F.) for breads and kabobs, and one slightly cooler for other meats and vegetables. Gaurav explained that cooking meats in an oven this hot seals in the juices almost instantly, and since the fuel is charcoal, it gives both meats and breads that grilled flavor so popular in the U.S. I have seldom worked with anyone who so clearly loved what he was doing, and now I understand that Gaurav has been selected and will soon enter a special training program for kitchen executives.
At this point in the afternoon, a hush fell over the kitchen and the tension was palpable. It seems that the owner, Mr. Oberoi, was staying at Vanyavilas and had just been seated in the dining room for his mid-day meal. Mr. Singh explained that Mr. Oberoi is very involved in the operation of his international hotel chain, with particular interest in the Vilas, his newest resort hotels. Furthermore, he is very particular about the food he eats and the food that is served—everything must be fresher than fresh, grown locally whenever possible, and prepared to perfection. This day he ordered Phaldhari Chaat as an appetizer. It's a dish developed in the Vanyavilas kitchen: a mixture of fresh fruits marinated in rock salt and tamarind and many other ingredients, skewered and cooked in the tandoor. With this dish he wanted Puris, a thin flat bread also cooked in the tandoor. But he wanted them thinner and smaller than usual. It was difficult to get them thin enough without having them burn in spots, and my lesson came to a standstill while Mr. Singh and the tandoor chef worked feverishly to get them just right. We finished up the afternoon by making Dal Lassoni, a traditional Rajasthani lentil delicacy tempered with garlic, cumin and red chilies. By this time my brain was exploding and my feet were wearing out, so we called it a day and I retreated to our marvelous tent.
In some ways the next day was even more exciting. Mid-morning, Mr. Singh and I went to the market in Sawai Madhopur. Some of the produce I recognized: baby eggplant, English peas, spinach, green mangoes, and papayas, as well as potatoes, tomatoes, and other fairly standard produce. Others I had never seen before and Mr. Singh didn't know the English word for them. We saw a lot of fresh turmeric and a wide variety of chilies, both green and red. We then paid a visit to the spice merchant. Most of the spices I recognized and have used. But I realize now that most of mine aren't fresh enough and are to be discarded. From now on I will try to buy in bulk, and only buy small amounts at a time. The spice merchant would open a can, or a bag, we would take a handful or a pinch, poke at it, rub it, taste it, smell it and put the rest back in its container.
When we returned to Vanyavilas, only a 15-minute drive but a whole different world, I was escorted to a spot on the lawn next to a lake with a fountain. Brightly colored umbrellas had been set up, and under them were several tables draped with vibrant-hued Indian cloths. Here a woman from the local village, mother of a member of the kitchen staff, demonstrated techniques of home cooking on a charcoal brazier. Although much of the preparation had been done ahead, it was delightful to watch how quickly and skillfully she put together some very tasty dishes.
But the best was saved for the last! To commemorate this fabulous cooking adventure, I was presented with a collection of all the recipes I had worked on, reduced to serve 4 or 6. It was nicely bound and included information on the influence of Ayurveda on Indian cuisine (the six flavors), the various spices and their uses, and the fresh herbs most commonly used. I also received a cookbook entitled Cooking With Indian Masters which Mr. Singh thinks is still the definitive work on authentic Indian cooking; and a beautiful covered reed basket about 12 inches in diameter that contained 16 satin pouches filled with packets of Indian spices!!
After the grand finale, I was delighted to find out that I was the first student to enjoy this exhilarating cooking experience.
Do you have a C&K travel story you would like to share? We'd love to hear from you! Submit your travel tales and reflections to tours@coxandkingsusa.com.
Travel Journals
Laos, Land of a Million Elephants
Nat Waring's North Island, Seychelles Report
Memsahib in the Kitchen
The Tigers of Rathambore
Life Along the Ayeyarwady
North Island, Seychelles
Our Honeymoon To Kenya
Our Stay at North Island
Bali and Sumba Islands, Indonesia
Peru and the Inti Raymi Festival
Northern Thailand & Myanmar
Going Native in Malaysia
Bhutan, Nepal, Cambodia & Thailand
Exploring Ethiopia
Falling in Love—with India
A Perfect Safari to Kenya and Tanzania
A Thai Wedding
Indochina Sojourn
Family Safari to Tanzania
Exploring Malaysia
Our Dream Family Safari to South Africa
Safari to Botswana
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Nepal: Trekking and Heli Trip
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Bangkok to Bhutan—A Father-Daughter Journey
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