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Travel Journals
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Laos, Land of a Million Elephants
April - May, 2005
—M. Kossman
A week has passed since my return from Laos, known in antiquity as the Land of a Million Elephants. Though the huge Asian animal no longer roams the jungles, we still had an opportunity to ride one toward the end of our trip. It is not the most comfortable form of transportation, but they seem to think it is important for the tourists, so we all mounted from a high tower onto a seat contraption, hung on for dear life, rode to a temple ruin at the top of a mountain, and had a lot of laughs.
I met the other travel agents on the trip in Bangkok, and we had an interesting day touring the Grand Palace, a beautiful example of an ancient Siamese court (I pictured The King and I-Yul Brynner pacing in the splendid courtyards) with the exquisite Emerald Buddha, Wat Po temple with its colossal Reclining Buddha, and Wat Trimitr with the amazing Golden Buddha made of 5 tons of gold! In the afternoon we boarded one of the long tailed boats for a scenic trip on the Chao Phraya River and canals where one really sees the everyday life along Bangkok's water ways.
The next morning we departed by air for Luang Prabang, our first stop in Laos. Known as the best preserved traditional city in South-East Asia, UNESCO voted it a World Heritage City in 1995. The funds will go toward the restoration and preservation of over 700 historic structures in the city. Luang Prabang is a sleepy town with splendid natural scenery and a sense of timelessness. Encircled by mountains at the confluence of the Khan and the Mekong rivers, the city is charming with its mix of typical Lao temple roofs, French provincial architecture and multiethnic inhabitants. Northern Hmong and Thai tribal people with their colorful garb walk around the town and sell their handicrafts at the bustling night market. Young Lao women ride along on their bicycles or scooters holding their colorful parasols to shade from the blistering sun.
We visited several Lao temples; from one, which is reached by a climb of 350 steps up a hill overlooking the city and surrounding countryside, we viewed a splendid sunset. Considered the most beautiful temple in the city is Vat Xieng Thong, built in 1560 with its classical Lao roofs which sweep low to the ground and ornate gilding inside and out.
On a traditional boat we traveled upstream on the Mekong River to visit caves housing thousands of statues of Buddhas and a village where the people produce a rice wine liquor and add a snake or scorpion in the bottle for good measure!
Beginning in Luang Prabang and throughout Laos we marveled at the textiles and silk weaving products. Each region boasts a different style. Some of my colleagues came home with 25 or more scarves, shawls, and hangings. One village weaving co op was just too overwhelming with the women seated on benches in a huge room with hundreds of their items displayed in front of them.
Early one morning in Luang Prabang, we left the hotel at 5 AM to see the saffron robed, head shaved monks promenade along the streets holding their brass bowls while the locals and we sat and offered them their sticky rice and food for the day. It is an interesting custom and ancient monastic tradition where the monks and nuns, who may not beg, walk quietly by with their alms bowls visible, allowing "interested" people to approach and offer food. The older monks lead the way with the progression getting younger and younger.
Our last evening we took part in a "Baci Ceremony." Guests kneel around an elaborately decorated cone of flowers surrounded by offerings to the spirits. An elder lit candles and prayed. Traditional Lao dancing followed with dancers in colorful costumes. The ceremony concluded with the Lao walking among us tying knotted cotton strings around our wrists and wishing us health and happiness.
A town experience is never complete without a walk through the local 'fresh' market. If one is squeamish this is not the place, as the Lao use entrails of every animal, fish or fowl in their native cuisine. I saw roots, herbs, spices, mushrooms, dried river moss, fruits, chillies that I never knew existed, much less knew were edible! One woman was selling tofu covered with fresh blood!
We next flew to Vientiane, the capital of Laos, where foreign investments and workers are transforming an easygoing town into a rapidly growing city. Located on a bend of the Mekong River, there is timeless charm among the tree-lined avenues, brightly painted temples, and quaint French colonial architecture. Although we visited several more temples, each was unique -some with remarkable frescoes, artifacts, and fine Buddhist sculpture.
In Vientiane we visited the studio/workshop of Carol Cassidy, an American weaver who has trained and employs 50 plus Lao weavers in the traditional Lao silk weaving techniques. Using German chemical dyes, Carol creates original designs incorporating traditional patterns and motifs. Most do custom work; one weaver was working on fabric for the Four Seasons in New York City. Another was weaving eight panels for a client's doors. I purchased one small hanging and two lovely silk tassels.
Our last stop was Pakse, the capital of the Champassak province in the southern region. Here we visited the famous pre Angkorian Wat Phu Temple (6th-13th centuries) built by the Khmer on a hillside with spectacular views of the surrounding plains and the Mekong River. From Pakse one can fly directly to Siem Reap to visit Ankor Wat which we toured 3 years ago. Around Pakse we saw gorgeous waterfalls, took a boat trip on the blue green Mekong to see the freshwater "Irrawaddy Dolphins," an extremely endangered species, rode the elephants, and visited a coffee and tea plantation. The Lao coffee is some of the best I have ever had.
This trip was a unique experience in many ways. Laos is not as progressive as Thailand. The French did not leave their mark here, as they did in Vietnam. It is a poor country, but the scenery is lovely, the people are friendly, the food is surprisingly good, the hotels are five star and beautiful, and the stunning antique temples are remarkable. Visiting South East Asia—Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia—is one of the most rewarding travel experiences I have ever had. It is exciting, exotic, adventurous and I look forward to returning.
Do you have a C&K travel story you would like to share? We'd love to hear from you! Submit your travel tales and reflections to tours@coxandkingsusa.com.
Travel Journals
Laos, Land of a Million Elephants
Nat Waring's North Island, Seychelles Report
Memsahib in the Kitchen
The Tigers of Rathambore
Life Along the Ayeyarwady
North Island, Seychelles
Our Honeymoon To Kenya
Our Stay at North Island
Bali and Sumba Islands, Indonesia
Peru and the Inti Raymi Festival
Northern Thailand & Myanmar
Going Native in Malaysia
Bhutan, Nepal, Cambodia & Thailand
Exploring Ethiopia
Falling in Love—with India
A Perfect Safari to Kenya and Tanzania
A Thai Wedding
Indochina Sojourn
Family Safari to Tanzania
Exploring Malaysia
Our Dream Family Safari to South Africa
Safari to Botswana
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