Set in the heart of the small southern Bahian village of Trancoso, Etnia Pousada is an ideal place to relax in quintessentially Brazilian fashion. Lulled by its tranquil charm and beautiful beaches, hippies discovered this fishing village in the 1970s. More recently, the area has drawn more sophisticated visitors, but its low-key character and distinct bohemian feel remains.

Previously immersed in the world of European design and fashion, owners Andre Zanonato and Corrado Tini have created a retreat with flawless taste, attention to detail and personal touches. Along with their friendly, helpful staff, the couple presides over an understated, stylish compound.

Walk down a wooded pathway to one of eight private bungalows that await you. Here, you will find a haven of imaginative modern simplicity. Each bungalow is decorated in a different motif—from African to Asian, and interpreted by distinct fabrics, furnishings and artwork. The rooms are equipped with comfortable amenities—four poster beds with cotton mosquito netting, private bathroom, large walk-in shower, air conditioning, TV, phone, minibar, safe and private veranda.

Beautifully presented breakfasts, taken in the poolside open-air lounge/restaurant, could
not be more satisfying. One could sit for hours enjoying the ambiance: white cushions, tablecloths and billowy curtains, rattan chairs and smooth, polished concrete floors. Add a long blue pool rimmed with deck chairs, surrounded by a melding of lush green foliages, including banana, mango and pau-brazil trees. No wonder this place seems to be the place everyone wants to go.

If you do manage to extract yourself from your cocoon at Etnia, there are other things to do here. Steps away from the pousada is the town square itself. A large grassy center area is bordered by colorfully painted 17th C fisherman's houses, turned into interesting shops, galleries and intimate, candle-lit restaurants. The square is the place where everyone meets and hangs out. From locals to VIP visitors, "laid-back" is the dress code and the lifestyle.

The Trancoso area also has some of the best beaches in Brazil. Some are within walking distance (15-20 mins), and others are worth a drive, including the beaches of Espelho and Cuiripe. Etnia Pousada is closed in May and June.